Victorian Cameo Brooch

15ct gold surrounds the particularly fine Shell Cameo probably depicting a Greek God.  The Italians are well known for their cutting of Shell cameos and hardstone Cameos which would have often been bought in Italy as a souvenir of their Grand Tour of Europe in Victorian times.

Shells have been used in jewellery from the earliest times.  Simply put a hole in the shell to make a pendant.  Here larger conch shells are used.  The molluscs have two inner layers, usually a white layer and then an underlying bown pink or orangish layer.

Cassis Mollusks which include the Helmet Conch, Cameo Conch, and Queen Conch, have a brownish or orangish background. Strobus Mollusks, including the Giant Conch and the Fountain Conch, have a pink background. The outer darker layer is removed and shell cameos are cut, not carved like hardstone, from the more beautiful inner layers.